Rabbits are considered to be clean animals & they’re also pretty easy to litter train, especially young ones. For best results, they should be litter trained at a young age, as older ones do not have the same success rate. It’s possible that an adult will never accept to use a litter box. Here are 5 simple steps to optimize your chances of successfully litter training your pet bunny:
1st Step: Choose The Right Litter Box
The litter box should be big enough for your rabbit to be able to fit in it completely. A corner litter, a ferret or a cat box can be used, but it must be heavy enough so that your bunny can’t flip it over, otherwise it might need to be attached to the cage.
2nd Step: Pick The Right Litter For The Litter Box
In your rabbit’s litter box, I suggest using recycled newspaper pellets, like Yesterday’sNews, for example. Why? Because They contain little to no dust, they’re highly absorbent, they’re excellent at limiting odors, they’re heavier than other types of litters & they make it easier to clean, as they don’t tend to stick to the pan. Since rabbits love to dig so much, the fact that pellets are heavier, makes it harder for your rabbit to dig them out of the litter box.
3rd Step: Cover The Bottom Of The Cage
Bedding or blankets should be added at the bottom of your bunny’s cage in order to prevent pododermatitis, also know as sore hocks. An illness that’s mainly due to improper flooring and/or unsanitary housing conditions. I personally prefer blankets to bedding for 3 reasons; they’re much cheaper, they can be used more than once & they won’t fly out of the cage. But if you really wish to add bedding, use a different type than the one you’re using for your litter box to help your rabbit differentiate one another.
The bedding on the floor of the cage must contain little to no dust & it must be soft on paws, like Carefresh or Fresh N’ Comfy for example. If you prefer using wood chips because they’re cheaper, than good quality aspen is the best & only option if you want to prevent any respiratory issues. Never use cedar or pine chips as they’re known to cause respiratory related infections.
4th Step: Transfer The Feces & Urine Into The Litter Box
The bottom of the cage will have to be kept clean. For best results, feces & urine should be added into the litter box. If your lucky you might be able to skip this step since some rabbits understand the utility of the litter box right off the bat.
At the very beginning, when comes time to clean, a small amount of the urine soiled litter should be left in the litter box. It may be completely cleaned out once the bunny fully apprehends how to use it. This process will help your rabbit understand, with his sense of smell, where he needs to go potty. Ideally, I suggest you apply, in his/her litter box, a small layer of recycled paper pellets that you will change daily. This will allow you to closely follow your bun bun’s health by helping you quickly identify any anomalies with his stools or urine.
When your rabbit is free roaming, I suggest having a litter box outside of the cage unless his cage is floor level & he can go in & out as he pleases.
5th Step: Continue With 4th Step
Follow the 4th step method until you get the desired outcome. Rabbits can defecate about 10 times per minute, if not more. It’s completely normal that not 100% of the droppings end up in the litter box. Also, getting your bunny fixed may help with the litter training process, especially if he/she has territorial tendencies. Keep in mind that teaching an older rabbit to be clean might demand more perseverance than with a younger one.